First and foremost is the valleys.  If you roof is more than 10 years old than more than likely you do not have Ice and Water Shield in the valleys.  The Ice and Water shield is a synthetic underlayment that help prevent ice damning and deterioration of your decking.  I know that in Illinois for instance it is code for all houses to have it in all vallleys and 24″ up from any interior walls. 

The easiest way to fix this kind of leak is to tear up all of the shingles in the valley and repair any damaged plywood decking, first.  Next you should put down your ice and water shield.  After that either install your metal valleys and then shingles or just install new shingles.

What about my chimney?

If your chimney is leaking it cold be a couple of different things.  If you have a brick or stone chimney than I would first check your counter flashing.  Counter flashing is the metal betweent he shingles and the chimney.  After time usually the caulk used to seal around the base of the chimney wears down and the metal will tend to fold away from the chimney.  This creates an opening for watre to get through.

If you have a chimney chase or chimney that has vinyl or metal siding on it than you have a problem underneath your siding.  The installers of the siding are supposed to run ice and water shield up all walls.  If this was never done than there is no way around it.  You must pull of the siding to about 24″-36″.  Remove the shingles closest to the chimney.  Install ice and water sheild so that it runs up the wall of the chimney, I would say 24″ up and then the remaining 12″ will go under the shingles you already removed.

Rubber or plastic plumbing boots.

These are at the base of the PVC pipes that run out of the roof to vent your water waste.  The rubber or plastic boots have a really big problem with cracking after over exposure to the elements.  The best thing to do when you go to replace these is to use a lead boot instead of the plastic one.  The lead boot is virtually indestructible and will last much longer.

Getting the job done right

I recommend using a local contractor that is very well established.  This way you know that they are going to back up their work.  Anybody can pretend to know what they are doing when do even the simplest of things on a roof.  Make sure that you get an estimate in writing with the job scope or else you might just be paying somebody to pretend like they are working.  They know that the average person is not going to climb around on their roof to check the work that they just paid for.  Always look for the BBB logo.

Artillery Fungus

What are the black spots?The spots are artillery fungus.  They are a fungus that usually spends most of its time in gardens and on mulch.  The artillery fungus is a white-rotting, wood-decay fungus that likes to live on moist landscape mulch.  They get on the siding because mulch has come into contact with the siding. It is in the genus Sphaerobolus (Greek for “sphere thrower”) and is  common across the USA.  This fungus thrives on sunlight and moist surfaces.  They have a tendency to be more attracted to lighter color vinyl siding because it reflects light more than the darker siding.

What can I do to get rid of the black spots (artillery fungus)?

Not much unless you have brand new siding.  If you have new siding than you can typically just pressure wash it.  The only other option is to sand off the spots by hand, but you will leave marks on your siding.  The only real option is to put up new siding and be sure to leave space between your flower beds and your siding. ]]> http://www.roofinggutterssiding.com/siding/i-have-black-spots-all-over-my-siding-what-are-they/feed/ 0 http://www.roofinggutterssiding.com/roofing/where-should-i-locate-the-nails-on-a-laminated-architectural-shingle-2/ http://www.roofinggutterssiding.com/roofing/where-should-i-locate-the-nails-on-a-laminated-architectural-shingle-2/#comments Wed, 16 Dec 2009 19:00:58 +0000 RoofingGuttersSiding http://www.roofinggutterssiding.com/?p=243 Location of Fasteners really depends upon the particular type of shingle being installed or any particular wind resistance specification that may be in effect.

Shingle manufacturers will generally specify   shingles be installed with four  nails per full width shingle. If your shingle has been cut to any length, you must at least installed two nails.

Almost all of of today’s laminated (architectural shingles are marked with a horizontal line indicating where the nails should be located.It is very important to follow each manufacturers specifications in regards to this line, as many manufacturers will not honor a shingle warrantee for the entire application if the nails are not exactly where specified. Shingle manufacturers typically attempt to deflect warrantee issues to the installer. If you have no issue with warrantee, fastening the nails near the fastening line so that they penetrate the double thickness section of the single and penetrate into the shingle under it will be suitable.

Nails need to be located about 1 inch from each and with the other two nails spaced approximately evenly between them.

In addition to those areas identified as high wind areas, some local communities specify particular miles per hour wind resistance levels for shingles. In those cases it is necessary to install one additional nail per shingle. After after installing the two nails on each end, evenly space the remaining four nails along the and nailing line.

So let’s talk about the process and the process is that there will be either a dumpster or dump truck that will be used to haul away all but three there should be numerous charts and plywood that is used to protect the landscaping siding the Windows the doors of birdbaths the concrete or whatever from being damaged in the process. One can generally assume that on a major terror off there is a distinct possibility, actually a probability that there will be some minor damage to something. It is advisable to expect that to do this major project something will be damaged in a minor way where major way. So we have a dumpster or we have the dump truck regarding the dumpster if it’s an asphalt driveway or even if it’s a concrete driveway make sure that the company delivering the dumpster places either plywood to quarter inch minimum, or a 2 x 12 piece of lumber underneath the rollers to protect the pavement or the concrete.

The material will be delivered in pallet form by local supplier should be delivered close enough so that the roofing contractors workers or installers can reach the material without having to walk an excessive amount of distance to pick up the material and bring up the ladder. If the job is going to start within a day or so of material delivery is acceptable to allow the shingle material to be placed on the grass or of course, it can be placed on the driver also. Another consideration is regarding the use of a dumpster and the use of the homeowners garage. Always identify which side of the garage or the dump truck is to be parked so that access is available to homeowner. For a terror off it is necessary to remove the existing shingles starter strips Felts valleys or whatever with the material is on the rough in order to get down to the roots back the roof deck could be plywood OSB which is oriented strand board or dimensional lumber it is always preferable to remove all of the existing roofing material in order to examine the roof deck to ensure that the roof deck isn’t suitable condition for new shingles or think contractors have different types of tools they use to remove the shingles some used some prefer pitchforks shovels while others use specifically designed tools for shingle removal in some instances a roofing contractor will manufacture or make his own roofing tool for shingle removal that he has found to work best for him removing the shingles and felt and putting it into the dumpster is done on a job by job basis depending upon how the roof line is the room available around the house and other factors.

The easiest method of courses to place the dumpster underneath Iraq had the ability to remove the shingles and Felton Valley and other materials bring them right to the edge of the roof and dumped it into the umps are this is of course, the easiest scenario. The most difficult scenario is word there is no Rome to place the dumpster and all of the shingles which all of the material which have come off the rough have to be handcarried or placed in a wheelbarrow and then hand-delivered will be wheelbarrow delivered to the dumpster and thrown in..

Do line prior to removing the shingles is necessary for the roofing contractor to use tarps and plywood to protect the areas under which shingles will be removed. After removal of all shingles felts valets etc. the deck must be inspected for any damage any ride rough decking must be replaced prior to installation of a new roof.

The most important tip is to be safe.

• Wear heavy gloves to protect your hands from sharp objects and also wear  safety glasses to protect your eyes from flying debris.
• Use a strong ladder. Make sure all the rungs are solid and have no cracks. Place the ladder itself on a level surface. If you are using an extension ladder, make sure you protect the surface of the gutter. A piece of cardboard placed in between the ladder and the gutter or a 2 x 6 placed into the gutter against the ladder  will work fine. If you’re roof is one story and is low pitched, you can work from the roof and avoid having to work off of the ladder. Be careful stepping off and stepping on to the ladder.

If the weather is dry and  the debris in the gutters are also dry,  you can save a lot of time by using a leaf blower. Under these circumstances this method is quite a time saver.

If the debris is wet or just soggy, you will have to scoop out the debris by hand and either drop it onto the ground or into a container. A small garden hand shovel works pretty well for this. You can push the debris along the gutter until you have a full scoop or handful and then remove it. There are also quite a few cleaning tools that are available in the market designed specifically for cleaning  gutters. Some are even usable from the ground via an extension pole.

After you have removed the majority of the debris with the hand shovel, you can then rinse the remainder with a garden hose. Start at the opposite end of the downspout and push the water on the gutter until you’ve rinsed the entire section into the downspout. You might have to install a high-pressure nozzle at the end of the hose if you don’t have enough water pressure to do the job.

Once you have flushed your downspouts,  you may have found that some material or debris is stuck in the downspout itself. If you’re unable to push it out using high-pressure water, you can use a plumbing router to loosen the debris enough so that it can flow out.

Should I tear off my existing shingle roof or should I install another layer of shingles over it?

This is a question that comes up very often when homeowners are trying to decide which is the most economical way to have a roof replaced.

Obviously the most economical way to have a new roof installed is to reroute over the existing shingles.

Disposal costs are minimal. The labor cost to remove the existing shingles is eliminated.

Underlayment costs may be eliminated. This will reduce material costs. The cost is associated with protection of the home during a tear off are greatly reduced. This includes the cost to have tarps available, plywood for protection of siding, windows, doors and landscaping, etc.

The labor cost to remove and replace areas flashings may be eliminated or greatly reduced.

Will the shingles on a re-roof last as long as a roof replacement?

No, generally you can expect up to a 30% decline in the life expectancy of shingles and stalled over existing shingles versus installed onto a roof deck. This will be especially true in warmer climates.

Can I get the same warranty on shingles installed over existing shingles as the warranty provided for shingles installed onto a roof deck?

What will help determine whether my shingle roof is a good candidate for a reroute?

Only one layer of shingles are now on the roof. There are no issues with roof leaks. The roof shingles appears to be relatively flat. There are no issues with ice damning.

Local building codes and ordinances do not prohibit reroofing. Most codes generally prohibit the installation of three layers of shingles.

There are charges associated with using a pneumatic nailer or stapler gun which include associated hoses and fittings and the air compressor, all which can be expensive.  These charges, however, are one time only and the investment is worth the payback due to the savings associated with labor costs. Proper placement of nails and proper driving of nails will affect the manufacturers warranty of any shingle. It is important to properly place nails in the shingles in accordance with manufacturers recommendations.  It is equally important to ensure that nails are properly driven into the shingles. It all boils down to proper training
and techniques of the roofing installer.

Algae growth usually begins on the north slopes and on other areas which receive little or no sunlight. These factors combined,  allow for a great environment for this algae to grow.  As algae grows on the roof, it retains even more moisture and thus speeds up the growth and  discoloration process.

This photo shows another type of growth found on the same asphalt shingle roof. This mold or lichen is green in color and thrives in the same conditions.

What is the best  way to eliminate the shingle  discoloration?

• Remove the existing shingles and reroof with algae resistant shingles. Most major manufacturers now offer algae resistant shingles in most of their product lines.
• Apply a  diluted chlorine bleach solution to the entire roof and rinse off. This works pretty well but should be left to a professional. Some companies now offer eco-friendly solutions that are less harmful to the environment.
• Have a Z. ( zinc) strip installed at each side of the ridge. In time the chemical reaction between water and zinc will kill the algae. This solution works pretty well especially on low slope roofs  with gable ends. Higher pitched roofs and roofs with numerous hips present a challenge best left to a professional roofing contractor.

This is a question that comes up very often when homeowners are trying to decide which is the most economical way to have a roof replaced.  Obviously the most economical way to have a new roof installed is to re-roof  over the existing shingles.

• The disposal costs of  a re-roof are minimal.
• The labor cost to remove the existing shingles is eliminated.
• Underlayment costs may be eliminated.  This will reduce material costs.
• The cost associated  with protection of the home during a  re-roof  are greatly reduced.  This eliminates  the cost to have tarps available, plywood for protection of siding, windows, doors and landscaping, etc.
• The labor cost to remove and replace areas flashings may be eliminated or greatly reduced.

How much money can I expect to save by re-roofing instead of replacing my shingle roof?

Generally you can expect to save 30 to 50% off of the price of a tear off.

Will the shingles on a re-roof last as long as a roof replacement?

No, generally you can expect up to a 30% decline in the life expectancy of shingles installed over existing shingles versus installed onto a roof deck. This will be especially true in warmer climates.

Can I get the same warranty on shingles installed over existing shingles as the warranty provided for shingles installed onto a roof deck?

Yes , the warranty is on the shingle  regardless  of a re-roof  or tear-off.

What will help determine whether my shingle roof is a good candidate for a re-roof?

• Only one layer of shingles are now on the roof.
• There are no issues with roof leaks.
• The roof shingles appear to be relatively flat.
• There are no issues with ice damning.

Local building codes and ordinances do not prohibit re-roofing.   However, most codes generally prohibit the installation of  more than  two layers  of shingles.

Homeowner  should contact three licensed, bonded, and insured roofing contractors.

The  contractors will  perform the following:

• Measure the roof.
• Refer to specification manuals cited in local, city and/or national building codes.
• Consult with homeowner to provide  the recommended  methods, shingle types and any additional roofing products which may be required.
• Provide to homeowner  a written estimate  detailing project descriptions, costs, and time frame.

What  should  the homeowner expect?

• A dumpster or dump truck will be used to haul away all of the old roofing debris.
• Tarps will be brought and used to protect all of the landscaping, siding, windows, doors, etc.
• Every homeowner should be aware that there is a possibility that some  minor damage  may  occur.
• Whether the homeowner has an asphalt or concrete driveway, the disposal company will be placing  at minimum three quarter inch plywood or a two by twelve piece of plywood underneath the rollers to protect the driveway.
• The material will be delivered in pallet form by the local supplier.
• It should be delivered in close proximity to the roof so that the installers wont  have to carry it an unnecessary distance.  Material can be  placed on the grass or the driveway provided the job is going to be started within a day or two.
• The homeowner should always identify which side of the garage  the dumpster should be placed.
• When tearing off a roof,  it is necessary to remove the existing shingles, starter strips, felt, valleys, etc. in order to get down to the roof deck which is typically  OSB plywood.
• The roof deck is then examined  to insure that it is in suitable condition to hold nails. Rotted or fractured plywood will have to be replaced.
• Roofers will utilize pitchforks or specially designed tools to remove all debris.
• The easiest method of debris  removal is to place the dumpster or dump truck close to the house, so that all of the debris can be moved to the edge of the roof and dumped.  The most difficult method of debris removal is the use of wheelbarrows to carry debris to the  dumpster when it cannot be conveniently located.
• Existing nails should be removed wherever possible and not pounded back in to prevent future nail pops.
• Once the debris is removed and the deck has been inspected and cleaned, the roof is ready for installation.